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Todd,

Since moving to San Diego from the SF Bay Area about five years ago,

I have been on a quest to find a small wave board

for average everyday surf.

I’ve experimented with everything from groveler type boards to modernized fish types and have not been able to find that magic shape that I can ride in area reef and beach breaks when the surf is small and mushy to somewhat punchy/decent in the knee to shoulder high range.

Complicating matters is that I’m a 40 yr old 200 lb guy.

However, I’m in good shape and surf 2-3 times a week.

My current small wave board is a quad fish (6’0” x 21” x 2.4”) with a concave deck, fairly pulled in tail and volume moved out towards the rails. It works well in mushy surf of any size up to head high, but struggles in the more punchy stuff with setting that fat rail and vertical turning in the pocket.

I love the down the line speed of the fish,

but want to be able to do short board moves in small surf.

I’m thinking I want more of a groveler type and am interested in your Greased Pig but also very curious about the Apache. My regular short board is a 6’6” x 19.5” x 2.65” swallow tail. I really won’t pull that board out unless it is head high and good and is mainly a Blacks board. If the surf surpasses the 8’ mark I have a 6’8” step-up for that. I’m trying to maintain a three board quiver and that small board is going to be a primary ride workhorse, so I need something that is pretty versatile. My style is pretty heavy footed and I use the rail a lot for turns. What do you suggest?

John

Hi John,

I think you’re spot on the right track and have done your homework super good.

The Greased Pig is what you’re looking for…..

super quick board, but with the hold and

maneuverability of a performance shortboard.

I would go 6’2′ – 6’4″ x 20″ x 2 5/8″+.

For heavy footed powerful guys

I make the concaves slightly heavier…..

this gives the board  nice positive hold when you push hard on it, it pushed back with positive speed this way. The Greased Pig surfs quick in the pocket and will keep things way more vertical than a typical fish or grovely kind of board.
The Apache is rad too, but for you I think you will gain more of the vertical thing and a more versatile board for you area of waves than with the Apache who’s fuller nose can get a little touchy sometimes when you wanna through right in the hook….the Apache’s best qualities are at the pointbreak setups.
Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have. I know you would be frothin’ on a Greased Pig.
Looking forward to your reply,
aloha,

Todd

Todd,

Thanks for your response. The Greased Pig sounds like what I’m looking for.

The Greased Pig